Potes, Spain: Unveiling the Charms of Cantabria’s Mountain Jewel
Nestled at the confluence of four rivers in the heart of the Liébana valley, Potes, Spain, is a captivating town that exudes rustic charm and offers a gateway to breathtaking natural beauty. Often referred to as the "Heart of Liébana," Potes serves as an ideal base for exploring the Picos de Europa National Park and immersing yourself in the rich culture and traditions of Cantabria. More than just a picturesque stop on a scenic drive, Potes is a destination in itself, brimming with activities and attractions that cater to a variety of interests, from outdoor adventures to historical exploration and culinary delights.
If you’re planning a trip to northern Spain, here’s a comprehensive guide to the best things to do in Potes, ensuring an unforgettable experience:
1. Explore the Historic Old Town (Casco Histórico):
No visit to Potes is complete without wandering through its enchanting old town. The Casco Histórico is a maze of narrow, cobbled streets lined with traditional stone houses, many adorned with vibrant flower boxes and wooden balconies. Take your time to soak in the atmosphere, admire the architecture, and discover hidden squares and charming courtyards.
- Torre del Infantado: This iconic medieval tower is a symbol of Potes. Originally built in the 14th century, it offers panoramic views of the town and the surrounding mountains. Climb to the top for a truly unforgettable perspective. The tower often hosts exhibitions related to the history of the area.
- Puente de San Cayetano: This ancient stone bridge, crossing the Quiviesa River, is a picturesque landmark and a perfect spot for taking photos. It’s a testament to the town’s long history and strategic location.
- Iglesia de San Vicente: This church, with its simple yet elegant facade, is a beautiful example of Cantabrian religious architecture. Step inside to admire the altarpiece and the serene atmosphere.
- Casa de la Villa (Town Hall): The town hall is another building of architectural merit. It is worth a stop to admire its traditional cantabrian style.
2. Hike in the Picos de Europa National Park:
Potes is a gateway to the stunning Picos de Europa National Park, a paradise for hikers and nature lovers. The park offers a diverse range of trails, from gentle walks along riverbanks to challenging climbs to rugged peaks.
- Fuente Dé Cable Car: A short drive from Potes, the Fuente Dé cable car whisks you up to an altitude of over 1,800 meters, providing breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains. From the top, you can embark on various hiking trails, suitable for different skill levels. The views from the top are simply spectacular, and the air is crisp and clean.
- Circular Route from Espinama to Aliva Refuge: A great option for a full day of hiking, this route takes you through meadows, forests, and past traditional shepherd huts. The Aliva Refuge offers a place to rest and enjoy a well-deserved meal with stunning views.
- Hermida Gorge (Desfiladero de la Hermida): Even if you don’t want to hike, the drive through the Hermida Gorge is a must-do. This dramatic canyon, carved by the Deva River, is one of the deepest in Spain. There are several viewpoints along the road where you can stop and admire the scenery.
3. Indulge in Cantabrian Gastronomy:
Potes and the Liébana valley are renowned for their delicious cuisine, which features hearty mountain fare and fresh local ingredients.
- Cocido Lebaniego: This traditional stew is a must-try. It’s made with chickpeas, potatoes, cabbage, and a variety of meats, including chorizo, morcilla (blood sausage), and beef. It’s the perfect dish to warm you up on a chilly day.
- Queso de Liébana: This local cheese is made from cow’s, sheep’s, or goat’s milk, or a mixture of all three. It has a distinctive flavor that reflects the rich pastures of the region. Try it on its own, with bread, or as an ingredient in other dishes.
- Orujo: This strong grape brandy is a traditional digestif in the Liébana valley. It’s often homemade and served after meals. Be careful, as it can be quite potent! Many local shops sell bottles of orujo if you want to take some home as a souvenir.
- Sidrerías (Cider Houses): While not as prevalent as in Asturias, you can find sidrerías in and around Potes, where you can enjoy local cider poured in the traditional way (from a height to aerate it).
- Restaurants: Potes boasts a good selection of restaurants serving traditional Cantabrian cuisine. Look for restaurants that use local ingredients and offer regional specialties.
4. Visit the Santo Toribio de Liébana Monastery:
Located a few kilometers from Potes, the Santo Toribio de Liébana Monastery is a significant religious site. It’s believed to house the largest surviving piece of the True Cross, making it a popular pilgrimage destination. The monastery’s history dates back to the 6th century, and its architecture reflects various styles, including Romanesque and Gothic. Even if you’re not religious, the monastery is worth visiting for its historical significance and beautiful setting. The views from the monastery grounds are also spectacular.
5. Explore the Centro de Estudios Lebaniegos:
This cultural center in Potes offers insights into the history, culture, and traditions of the Liébana valley. It features exhibitions, workshops, and events throughout the year. It’s a great place to learn more about the region and its people. Check their website for current events and exhibitions.
6. Go Rafting or Kayaking on the Deva River:
For the adventurous, the Deva River offers opportunities for rafting and kayaking. Several companies offer guided tours, allowing you to experience the thrill of navigating the river’s rapids while enjoying the stunning scenery. This is a great way to see the Liébana valley from a different perspective.
7. Attend a Local Festival:
Potes and the surrounding villages host various festivals throughout the year, celebrating local traditions and culture. These festivals often feature music, dancing, food, and crafts. Check the local calendar to see if there are any festivals happening during your visit. The atmosphere is always lively and welcoming.
8. Visit Mogrovejo:
A short drive from Potes is the beautiful village of Mogrovejo, a picture-postcard mountain village with traditional stone houses and a stunning medieval tower. It’s a charming place to wander around and soak in the rural atmosphere. Mogrovejo is also a popular filming location.
9. Relax and Enjoy the Scenery:
Sometimes, the best thing to do in Potes is simply to relax and enjoy the scenery. Find a quiet spot by the river, sit in a café and watch the world go by, or simply stroll through the town and admire the architecture. Potes is a place where you can slow down, disconnect from the stresses of everyday life, and reconnect with nature.
10. Day Trip to Santillana del Mar and Comillas:
While Potes is a great base, consider taking a day trip to explore other charming towns in Cantabria. Santillana del Mar, known as "the town of three lies" (it’s neither holy, nor on the sea, nor flat), is a beautifully preserved medieval town. Comillas is famous for its modernist architecture, including El Capricho, designed by Antoni Gaudí.
Planning Your Trip to Potes:
- Best Time to Visit: The best time to visit Potes is during the spring, summer, or early autumn, when the weather is mild and the hiking trails are open.
- Getting There: The nearest airport is Santander Airport (SDR), which is about a 2-hour drive from Potes. You can rent a car at the airport or take a bus to Potes.
- Accommodation: Potes offers a range of accommodation options, including hotels, guesthouses, and rural houses.
- Transportation: While Potes is walkable, a car is recommended for exploring the surrounding area and the Picos de Europa National Park.
Potes is a hidden gem in northern Spain, offering a unique blend of natural beauty, historical charm, and culinary delights. Whether you’re an avid hiker, a history buff, or simply looking for a relaxing getaway, Potes has something to offer everyone. So, pack your bags, prepare to be amazed, and discover the magic of Potes!


